The Fall and Rise of the Swiss Watch Industry Then in 1926, a tie-up between Eterna’s ETA SA and FHF formed Ébauches Ltd. Generally, ETA SA was Eterna’s movement branch founded in 1896. Through the years, Eterna established a separate section for its movements. In 1856, more than six decades later, in Grenchen, an ébauche factory emerged through Urs Schild, a schoolmaster, and Dr. In 1793, four master watchmakers - namely David Benguerel, Isaac Benguerel, and François and Julien Humbert-Droz - opened a workshop and business named Fabriques d’Horlogerie de Fontainemelon (FHF). Photo from ETA SA History of ETA SAĮTA SA’s history traces as far back as 1793 despite it being officially founded in 1856. The institution ultimately came about as a result of the consolidation of the Swiss watch industry. The amalgamation of former movement manufacturers such as Valjoux, Peseux, and Lemania brought the company about. Now a wholly-owned subsidiary of The Swatch Group, ETA supplies its sister companies and other competing companies parts or whole movements for their timepieces. The company produces quartz movements, hand-wound and self-winding mechanical movements as well as ébauches. Ébauche, in horology, refers to unassembled or partially assembled parts of a movement. What is ETA SA?ĮTA SA Manufacture Horlogère Suisse - simply known to many as ETA - provides and supplies movements to various watch brands. Brands such as Tudor, TAG Heuer, Omega, and Frédérique Constant mainly uses an ETA movement or ETA-based movements. No, it’s not an acronym for “Estimated Time of Arrival”. To put it simply, ETA is Switzerland’s biggest and leading movement maker. This company creates the nervous system of your watch, most especially your Swiss luxury watch. But, of course, what sets the Bico apart is its bronze bezel and bracelet accent.Swiss luxury watches have either one of two movements: in-house or ETA. Most people who are new to watch collecting might have heard of an ETA movement but have little to no idea what it really is. Meanwhile, those who have been in the business for quite a while know exactly what we’re talking about. 733, a self-winding movement operating at 28,800vph and which has a 38-hour power reserve. It is powered by the Sellita SW 200-1-based Oris cal. The watch retains the specifications of existing Sixty-Five three-handers, meaning it has a 40-millimeter-wide case that’s water-resistant to 100 meters, a solid screw-in caseback and crown, and sapphire crystal cover. Oris’s previous releases of bronzed Sixty-Fives (the limited-ed Carl Brashear and chronograph) met rave responses, and now so does the Bico. And this turned the “Bico” into a current must-have piece among watch geeks. The approach is both unusual and logical two-tone watches are picking up steam while bronze ones have been hot these past few years. Instead of going for the usual steel-and-gold mix Oris chose to drape one of its recent renditions of the Diver’s Sixty-Five in steel and bronze. 3235 that beats at 28,800vph and packs power good for 70 hours. Powering it is Rolex’s superlative chronometer, silicon component-enhanced, self-winding cal. Think a scratch-proof ceramic bezel insert, a helium escape valve, trick bracelet (also in Rolesor) with diver’s extension and safety clasp, and a serious water-resistance rating of 1,220 meters. This means the latest Sea-Dweller retains all the good stuff for which this generation of the model is known, as well as all the traditional features that have made the Sea-Dweller a dive-watch benchmark. 126600 released at the same show in 2017, which itself courted controversy because of its 43-millimeter case size (the largest for an SD) and its adoption of the cyclops magnifying glass (the first for an SD). This watch is the dressy version of the ref. 126603 Sea-Dweller garbed in Rolesor - the brand’s combination of its Oystersteel and 18-karat yellow gold. Continuing Rolex’s recent string of Baselworld hits is the ref.
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